A Matter of Good Taste

John Elliot writing in this week's Scottish Farmer said
“a steak served in a roadside diner in USA or Canada will eclipse most served in top restaurants in Scotland.” He added a swipe at those he held responsible for his belief
“The show lobby and the EUROP grading system have a lot to answer for. So often I see a sign outside local butchers saying where their beef was bred. Knowing the farm, I recognise that the beast will certainly have yielded well. Fair chance that when the housewife re-enters the shop she will ask for chicken!”

SFMTA and its members do not think Mr Elliot should be let off with such comments. It is sad that the respected farmer chooses to spot light the local butcher. To suggest that butchers are selling beef that does not warrant repeat sales demonstrates a total absence of understanding.

Scottish butchers take a much longer term approach to their customers many of whom will shop with them for several decades through their lifetime. Beef sales are the mainstay of every Scottish butcher and no matter whether their customer is a top restaurant or someone struggling to buy enough for a beef stew, they all take the greatest care in ensuring that that the quality demanded meets expectations.

To single out and blame butchers for the fact that beef does not have the flavour it once had really is choosing the wrong target. They are not the ones responsible for the high yielding lean EUROP graded beef. When the ever more controlling multiples say jump their suppliers respond by saying how high? By waving a few more pence per kilo for a certain specification they flock like sheep, by passing any traditions from the good old days such as live open market auctions, much to the delight of their master. Coupled with the move away from the markets to direct to kill/supermarket contracts out went native breeds, proper grass and root vegetables. In came continentals, barley and bull beef.

It is disappointing that Mr Elliot's negative and derogatory comments are aimed at specialist beef retailers. Scottish butchers are extremely loyal to Scottish farmers when it comes to sourcing. The vast majority of progressive successful local butchers select higher quality animals with extra finish and pay a premium for that. To say that the product of their care and attention does more to promote the poultry industry is scandalous. Scottish butchers do everything within their powers to supply their customers with the very best beef eating experience.

Regards roadside diners in North America, experiences are of course anecdotal. Agreed comments regularly commend their steaks for tenderness but rarely for flavour.

Before beating ourselves up about the American experience we should consider the fact their cattle are given growth hormones and hence killed a lot younger than our cattle. This is something our consumers would not want Scottish farmers to do even if it was legal.

Balance that with the countless amounts of positive feedback from American guests at some of Scotland's top hotels where they can't believe the flavour of our beef!